Searching with Purpose: Part 2 — The Checklist

This is the second in a three-part series on searching with purpose. In Part 1, we looked at building a plan based on odor movement and productive zones. Now it’s time to talk about how you know when your search is complete. That’s where the checklist comes in.

When should you call Finish?

That’s one of the hardest decisions handlers face. Not because it’s complicated—but because it feels uncertain. You think you’ve worked the space, but you’re not totally sure. You’re tempted to walk away, but something nags at you. Or you keep searching and searching until your dog starts making stuff up just to get out of the pressure.

You need something to guide that moment, and that’s what the checklist is for.

What the Checklist Does

The checklist isn’t about perfection. It’s not a scorecard or a trial rulebook. It’s your tool to make an informed decision about when the search is done. It keeps you honest. It gives you a reason to stop—or a reason to keep going.

It also gives you a way to think clearly under pressure. If you’ve got a plan that moves your dog through the productive zones, and a checklist that confirms you hit them, then you’re not guessing when it’s time to call. You’re checking your work.

What Goes on Your Checklist?

Some common items show up on nearly every team’s list:

✅ Did I get downwind?

✅ Did I hit the productive areas—corners, airflow disruptions, natural eddies, object edges?

✅ Did we work low, medium, and high?

✅ Did I clear the threshold?

✅ Did my dog have room to actually work the odor?

✅ Did I see real hunting or sourcing behavior?

If you’re outside—or airflow is moving strongly—add this to your list:

✅ Did I search the few feet beyond the boundary?

But a good checklist is personalized. That means it reflects the specific tendencies and needs of your dog and your handling style.

One handler might need to resist leaving the threshold too quickly—and make sure it gets revisited. Another might need to include “Did my dog actually search, or just exist in the space?” A third might need to intentionally work the area from both directions, because the dog performs better with a different entry angle or away from visual distractions.

Your checklist should account for these patterns. Not because your dog is doing something wrong—but because you're learning how they search and setting them up to succeed.

But What If My Dog Has Other Ideas?

If my dog pulls off my plan because they’re in odor, I let them go. Once they’ve worked it and the odor behavior settles, I go right back to the plan and keep working the rest of the space.

The plan doesn’t mean we ignore what the dog is telling us. It means we don’t forget what we still need to do after they’re done.

A flexible plan lets you let your dog lead without losing the structure of the search.

When Do You Use It?

Use your checklist before you call “finish.” If you haven’t hit every box, you're not ready to be done.

If you’ve checked every item, and your dog is showing consistent, productive behavior, you’ve got a solid foundation to make the call. You’re not hoping. You’re deciding.

Start Small

If you’re new to this, don’t try to track ten different things at once. Start with three:

• Did I work downwind?

• Did I see hunting in all zones?

• Did I clear the threshold?

That’s enough. As you get more experienced, your list will grow naturally. The key is consistency. Think in terms of building your search routine, not trying to remember a checklist in the heat of the moment.

It’s Not a Clipboard — It’s a Mental Tool

You don’t need to carry a written list. This should live in your mental rhythm, your handling flow. When your dog pulls off your plan to work odor, let them. And when they’re done, go back to your list.

That’s the point. The checklist helps you keep track of what’s been covered, so you don’t lose your plan when the dog takes the wheel for a bit.

Build It Backwards

One of the best ways to learn your checklist is to run it after the fact.

Look at a video or replay a run in your head and ask:

• Did I hit all my productive areas?
  

• Did I give my dog space to work?
  

• Did I get the threshold?
  

• Did I see real hunting or was my dog just walking around with me?

This is where growth happens. You're training your brain to recognize gaps. And once that recognition becomes instinctive, you'll start making better decisions in real-time.

That’s what the checklist gives you: clarity and confidence.

Next Month: Decision Trees

In Part 3, I’ll talk about what happens when things go sideways, your dog gets startled, gets stuck, or zones out mid-search. We'll look at how you can use decision trees to simplify the choices you make on the fly and avoid freezing up.

For now, start using your checklist. Keep it small. Make it personal. And check it before you call Finish.