Searching with Purpose: Part 1 — Start with a Plan

This is the first in a three-part series on searching with purpose. We’ll look at what it really means to work a search with intention—starting with a plan, following a checklist, and using decision trees to stay clear-headed in the moment. First up: the plan.

When people hear “search plan,” they often picture something rigid—like a leash pattern or a route they have to follow no matter what. That’s not what I mean when I say have a plan.

A real search plan isn’t about controlling your dog’s every step. It’s about understanding what the space is doing and making sure your dog gets access to the places where odor is likely to be. That’s it. Not a pattern. A strategy.

So What Is a Search Plan?

When I walk into a search area, I’m looking at it through the lens of odor. Where is it moving? Where might it pool or drift? What’s going to change the way it flows? My plan is built around those answers.

I’m asking myself:

• Where is downwind?

• What environmental features might create eddies or trap odor?

• Are there corners or protected spaces I can’t see from the line?

• What surfaces might be holding scent—low, mid, high?

All of those questions help me identify productive areas—spots where odor is likely to be or where my dog is more likely to be successful. My job is to make sure my dog gets to those spots. That’s the plan.

What It’s Not

A plan is not a leash pattern. It’s not a loop around the room. It’s not “go left, go right, go center.” If your plan ignores how odor works, it’s not really a plan.

Odor doesn’t behave in straight lines. It drifts, swirls, collects, gets trapped. A pattern might make you feel thorough, but it can easily steer your dog away from source if you’re not paying attention to the environment.

So your plan needs to come from the space, not habit.

Productive Spaces: What You’re Really Planning For

Your job is to get your dog into productive areas. That means:

• Working downwind early so your dog has the best chance to catch odor

• Visiting corners, edges, pockets, and deep under objects where scent may collect

• Ensuring your dog searches all planes: low, mid, and high

• Identifying obstacles (like trees, benches, boxes, and terrain changes) that could shift airflow

• Making sure your dog can work low, mid, and high, especially if you know elevation is in play

It’s not about how you get there. It’s about whether you get there.

But What If My Dog Has Other Ideas?

If my dog pulls off my plan because they’re in odor, I let them go. Once they’ve worked it and the odor behavior settles, I go right back to the plan and keep working the rest of the space.

The plan doesn’t mean we ignore what the dog is telling us. It means we don’t forget what we still need to do after they’re done.

A flexible plan lets you let your dog lead without losing the structure of the search.

Patterns Aren’t the Enemy—They’re Just Not the Goal

I use patterns. But I use them to support the plan, not replace it. A pattern can help make sure I’m being thorough, but only if it’s built around the productive zones.

If your pattern is moving your dog away from odor just because that’s what you’ve always done, that’s not a plan. That’s a loop.

Start Small

If you’re new to planning, don’t try to map the whole space. Start by picking one productive feature. Maybe it’s the downwind side of a structure, or a pile of chairs near a wall, or a tree in a field. Make sure your dog gets to that spot on purpose, not by accident. That’s a win.

Over time, your eye for odor movement will sharpen. You’ll start seeing more. Your plans will get more effective. And your dog will have more opportunities to work.

Next time, we’ll talk about how to know when you’re done: building a checklist. That’s what lets you walk away from the search line without second-guessing. So make sure you’re subscribed if you want to keep going with this series.